- Nitrile gloves
- Glass cleaner (non-ammonia based)
- Silicone adhesive sealant
- Applicator squeegee
- Glass scraper / Flat razor blade
- Lint free cloth (microfiber)
- Low adhesive tape (painters tape)
- Packaging tape
- Wire mold / trim
- Ladder (if necessary)
- Electrical tester (switch cord
- Soldering iron
- Electrical wire leads
Step 1: Thoroughly clean the surface of the glass with glass cleaner & squeegee, and ensure there are no particles/debris left on the glass. It is best to clean both sides of glass (if possible) in order to distinguish debris on application side. Use a glass scraper if necessary to remove any debris stuck onto the glass surface.
NOTE: the cleaner you get the glass from the start, the quicker the installation time as there will be fewer air bubbles to deal with during installation. Glass must be completely dry prior to application of film.
Step 2: With nitrile gloves on, clean the non-adhesive side of the film using a dry microfiber cloth. Turn film over and wipe down the adhesive side. Note: Do not remove the protective liner (Self Adhesive Side) until you are ready to install the film. The protective liner (Non-Adhesive Side) should remain until installation is completed.
Step 3: Take a sheet of film to the intended glass surface and hold into place with painters tape to ensure proper fit and placement on glass before removing the protective covering. Note that there are 2 copper mesh tabs (bus bar) along one side of the film as specified by customer. Make sure that the film is oriented correctly so that the copper mesh tabs are located on the intended side. Copper tabs are not to come in contact with any metal framing or stops.
Step 4: Create tabs (with packaging tape) and place at each corner of the film on the adhesive side. This will act as a handle which will allow for easy release of the protective covering. Do not use sharp items (i.e. nail, knife) to remove the protective covering, as that could create risk of film delaminating at the edge.
Step 5: Gradually remove the protective covering (about 8”-12”) from the top by pulling down on the tape tabs while carefully applying this portion of the film to the glass.
Step 6: Continue to work the protective covering down the sheet slowly and focus the squeegee in the center of the film to allow edges to lay themselves down. If you discover air dust/bubbles once the film adheres to the glass, slowly pull the film back up past that location, and remove the debris with a piece of painters tape wrapped around your index finger (adhesive side out). Please note that the film will start to lose adhesiveness with constant removal from the glass.
Step 7: Repeat steps 1-6 until all film pieces are installed on glass.
Notes: Any imperfections in glass (i.e. indentations, protrusions) may leave small air bubbles in the film. Also any holes required in the film (to accommodate door hardware) should have the edges sealed with a non-acetic silicone.
1.3 ELECTRICAL SETUP
Step 8: Connect electrical wiring to copper mesh tabs using a soldering iron (be sure to protect the film from potential solder drops). Solder a cable to one tab on the left (positive connection) and to one on the right (negative connection). Quickly test the film to ensure it is working before proceeding. Once you have tested it you can trim off the spare portion of the mesh tab.Note: you can also use wire nuts to connect wires to the copper mesh tab.
Step 9: Use non-acid based silicone along the bus bar edge to hold the wire mold/trim in place. Using acid based silicone can cause irreparable damage to the film product.
Step 10: Completely cover the bus bar area within existing frame or with Wire mold/trim (match existing finishes) to avoid exposure to electric shock. It is recommended to use a non-conductive wire mold (i.e. plastic). If you wish to use a metal wire mold we suggest you contact an electrician. Notch wire mold with dremel to accommodate wiring and attach prior to soldering. It is optional to cover remaining three edges with trim to meet any aesthetic requirements.